Kim and Kanye, Fashionably Late

12 Sep 2015 | Author: | No comments yet »

At Polo, Collegiate Stalwarts and Some Fringy Newcomers.

When Princess Diana’s marriage was falling apart and she needed a photographer to help recast her as sexy, independent and carefree, Patrick Demarchelier was the man she called on. The drive to create something individual and handmade, or at least the illusion of something individual and handmade, could be felt across several collections shown Thursday at New York Fashion Week, starting with mega-brand BCBGMaxAzria, which is the antithesis of small and special with massive production runs and 570 stores worldwide. Demarchelier has photographed them and countless others in sensuous but classically pretty spreads for Vogue, Glamour, Vanity Fair, W, Harper’s Bazaar, Cosmopolitan and Allure. Demarchelier at an exhibition of his most iconic images, many of which hark back to the supermodel era, when Linda Evangelista, Christy Turlington, Cindy Crawford and Kate Moss ruled the roost.

It made for a spirited hodgepodge, even if some of the knitwear did remind me of the work of L.A. designer Greg Chait and his high-end, handmade Elder Statesman collection. Later in the day, L.A. designer Raquel Allegra had a more authentic take on the multilayered Cal-artsy look, mostly because her clothes really are handmade. Overwhelmingly, his colleagues praised him for his speed on set, his strong eye and his impeccable taste, which has not wavered even in this blown-out, porno-chic era.

And now, her tie-dyeing (a serious cut above your backyard bucket job) spans a range of wearable wardrobe pieces, including loose shirt dresses, trench coats, blazers and gauze beach pants. For spring, she added some watercolor floral prints to the mix of dresses and blouses with fraying collars, and leather fringe to the shoulders of cool linen button-down shirts.

Demarchelier’s unique blend of French and English has become so legendary that there is a question asked routinely in the industry before people are brought onto jobs with him: “Do you speak Patrick?” For a man known for being chipper in a field of depressives, his sole resentment is toward consonants. At Creatures of the Wind, designers Shane Gabier and Christopher Peters played a glammier tune than we’re used to seeing from them, complete with fishnet stockings, glitter eyeshadow and punky hair on their models. Sheer layering tops were here, too—in tulle embroidered with rock starry crystals, worn underneath a short sleeve twill shirt dress on one look, and an ivory jacquard stripe wrap vest on another. Goodman said. “The best is when Patrick is talking to a celebrity and the celebrity has that look on their face like they are trying desperately to understand what he’s saying and they can’t let on they do not.” “No one understands anything he says,” Grace Coddington said. “But he calls the models ‘bebe’ and says ‘fabulous’ and ‘diveeeeene,’ and he makes them feel beautiful.” And so they stand on beaches, lie atop of Frette sheets and crawl across the desert sand for the tall man with the wavy gray hair, who goes snap, snap, snap and grunts with approval. As always, the fabrics were rich and unexpected — wallpaper patterned jacquards, fraying fil coupes and block-printed linens that could just as easily be used in interiors as in fashion.

But what made this collection the Chicago designers’ best yet were the silhouettes, which were sexier, more mature and cut closer to the body, with a drop shoulder dress here, and a zip-back skinny ankle pant there. Demarchelier — who stood in the corner looking casually chic in his greenish Hermès blazer, his blue Hermès shirt, his washed-out J Crew jeans and his New Balance Sneakers — said the most important thing is to capture beauty, inside and out. “My accent is strong,” he said. “Sometimes I do TV interview, and I see the subtitles underceese. The overall result was still whimsical, which by now is part of the COTW DNA, but also polished and red carpet ready, which is just what these guys need to take it to the next level.

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