Is Grunge the New Glamour? Why Marc Jacobs’s Destroyed Chignons are Fueling …

18 Sep 2015 | Author: | No comments yet »

At Marc Jacobs, Beauty Inspired by the Morning After.

The fashion designer who closed the event on Thursday, had Kendall Jenner, Bella Hadid, Karen Elson and singer Beth Ditto hitting the runway in his creations.

She has been vocal in the past about her figure and embracing her plus-size, telling The Advocate: ‘It’s really cool that there are people like Adele on the cover of Vogue and Rolling Stone, and like I think it’s really important that people are talking about your body, because if they don’t, then you’ll never be able to break that barrier.’ Marc Jacobs closed New York fashion week on Thursday night with a show so spectacular the city’s other designers will be relieved they don’t have to follow it.Givenchy made an imposing splash with its sensitive, star-studded show last Friday, and Wednesday, Kanye West showed what seemed like all of the world’s celebrities his self-serious avant-garde sweatshirts and underwear for the people (call him Spanxy?).

The idea for the beauty in Marc Jacobs’s spring/summer 2016 show — from the hair and makeup right down to the sixth layer of glitter nail polish — was a fully conceived one: a girl who’s been out all night partying. The collection was announced on a billboard outside, the street packed with rubberneckers as well as those who wanted to see exactly what was going to be gracing the ‘catwalk.’ The onlookers, which were made of up a mix of old and new celebrities as well as fashion doyennes, were handed a Playbill as a program, and given popcorn as they waited for the fun to begin. Meanwhile Emily Ratajkowski, who made her runway debut, wore a twist on a sailor suit, the model turned actress teaming her three –quarter length trousers with high heeled dainty shoes.

Jacobs’ name was six-foot-high in lights above the entrance; in the lobby, ushers in waistcoats handed out drinks and snacks in shiny crimson ‘Marc Jacobs’-branded cups. Jacobs has never been a man to shy away from a theme (if his rigid but bizarrely accurate dress code for last week’s party at Tunnel was any indication.

Afterwards, the hair was pulled back and up into various forms of unspecific updos: messy variations on a French twist, unintentionally asymmetrical chignons — and secured with pins and decorative rhinestone and pearl-encrusted clips from the new collection. In the main arena, three runways ran between the plush cinema seats, where Jacobs’ celebrity friends, including Debbie Harry and Sofia Coppola, proved their superhuman levels of chic by remaining crumb free while eating popcorn.

So in the decadent, chandelier-stuffed lobby of the theater—whose plush red made for a fun nod to Diana Vreeland, an acolyte of the cult of scarlet who was Jacobs’s muse last season—flirty-faced boys and girls dispensed popcorn, candy, and fountain sodas from concession stands as attendees flurried in to find their seats. (Comfortingly, the street style priestesses who are themselves the size of a large Dr. Jacobs’s show, held tonight at the Ziegfeld Theatre, was the only one that Nars chose to work on this season (they’re close friends), and luckily, he had little reason to be bored. On the stage, a 20-piece swing band waited for its cue, while virtual curtains were pulled back on the cinema screen, and the first model was shown striding down the red carpet outside. Unlike the natural, effortless, makeup-free looks we’ve seen almost too much of lately, Nars was tasked with conveying a certain kind of lived-in glamour. “It’s very downtown rock — more like a rough glamour. Her long walk took her past a Marc Jacobs-branded board, of the kind celebrities pose in front of dutifully at events, where she lingered for comic effect before gliding up the escalator and passing through the lobby.

There were celluloid sequins galore; fur, fringe, and slits-up-to-there; 30s-ish silhouettes clamoring with embellishments, like Garbo if she wanted to be seen; embellished Warholian screenprints of the iconic female film scream; a-doo-ron-ron varsity jackets; American flag motifs that suggested the big, wet kiss brand of Evel Knevil patriotism; biker babe looks; and even a funky little grouping of merry majorettes. To achieve that perennial party-girl look, Nars kept skin clean of foundation and concealer, instead opting for a touch of greasy shine at the eyes, cheekbones and under the eyes. (“Vaseline is the best,” he said.) With a touch of shadow, he added some darkness under the eyes for a messy, day-after makeup effect, and a shock of turquoise blue at the inner corner of the eyelid for a rounder, doll-like shape. “There are a lot of bright colors,” he said, referencing the collection and his bold choice of hue.

If there was a dominant theme it was Americana – models had morning-after rockabilly hair and many wore American flag bras or carried star spangled handbags. But there was so much more besides: baseball jackets, majorette uniforms, trouser suits, brooches, fur stoles, cowboy boots, clashes of texture in wooly jumpers worn over shimmering evening skirts, and cinematic references in the repeated printed motif of a woman wearing 3D glasses. This vision of a young woman who barely has the time — or the inclination — to remove one layer of makeup before adding a fresh new one, extended to the hands, too. Nail artist Jin Soon topped base colors of bright red and royal blue with multiple coats of red and silver glitter, sometimes as many as three or four, she said.

The show came at a time of immense pressure for the brand: earlier this year, Jacobs’ diffusion line – Marc by Marc Jacobs – was closed, and its designers, Katie Hillier and Luella Bartley, left to set up their own label. The idea was for the whole of the company’s stock to be designed under the main “Marc Jacobs” banner, a consolidation that occurred amid rumours of an upcoming IPO. One question “what colour were @themarcjacobs Calvins on his Instagram leak?” referred to a social media slip up this summer, when Jacobs accidentally posted a nude picture destined for a lover to his Instagram account, captioned: “it’s yours to try!” Though he has shrugged off the incident with humour, even releasing a T-shirt with that caption as its slogan it must be nice to know with this remarkable show he has given the fashion industry something else to talk about.

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