‘Bionic model’ will strut down New York Fashion Week runway with prosthetic arm

12 Sep 2015 | Author: | No comments yet »

L.A. vagabonds, Cal-artsy cool and more at Day 1 of New York Fashion Week.

Welcome to hurly burly New York fashion week, where the official calendar is so crowded that designers are offering to ferry some foot-weary editors to their shows.

In addition to 190-plus collections, one of the week’s highlights will be Givenchy’s debut of its Spring 2016 collection Friday, following with what is likely to be one of the week’s best-attended parties. Harper’s Bazaar will throw a fete at the Plaza hotel headlined by a performance by Katy Perry and a dress code calling for “fantasy black tie”—whatever that is. It made for a spirited hodgepodge, even if some of the knitwear did remind me of the work of L.A. designer Greg Chait and his high-end, handmade Elder Statesman collection. Later in the day, L.A. designer Raquel Allegra had a more authentic take on the multilayered Cal-artsy look, mostly because her clothes really are handmade.

And now, her tie-dyeing (a serious cut above your backyard bucket job) spans a range of wearable wardrobe pieces, including loose shirt dresses, trench coats, blazers and gauze beach pants. For spring, she added some watercolor floral prints to the mix of dresses and blouses with fraying collars, and leather fringe to the shoulders of cool linen button-down shirts.

At Creatures of the Wind, designers Shane Gabier and Christopher Peters played a glammier tune than we’re used to seeing from them, complete with fishnet stockings, glitter eyeshadow and punky hair on their models. Meanwhile, the Council of Fashion Designers of America, which essentially governs New York’s fashion industry and runs the official Fashion Calendar, is promoting #cfdanyfw, which takes up a few more characters on Twitter’s limit, by the way.

Sheer layering tops were here, too—in tulle embroidered with rock starry crystals, worn underneath a short sleeve twill shirt dress on one look, and an ivory jacquard stripe wrap vest on another. As always, the fabrics were rich and unexpected — wallpaper patterned jacquards, fraying fil coupes and block-printed linens that could just as easily be used in interiors as in fashion. But what made this collection the Chicago designers’ best yet were the silhouettes, which were sexier, more mature and cut closer to the body, with a drop shoulder dress here, and a zip-back skinny ankle pant there.

The overall result was still whimsical, which by now is part of the COTW DNA, but also polished and red carpet ready, which is just what these guys need to take it to the next level. The label debuted a sneaker collaboration with Athletic Propulsion Labs, an L.A.-based maker of high-performance athletic footwear founded by twin brothers Adam and Ryan Goldston. Smith U.S. workwear designer Carrie Hammer is starting a “runway revolution.” Instead of fashion models, she tapped women who are leaders from outside the fashion world to be “role models” on the runway. The 27 women included figure skater and Olympic gold medalist Meryl Davis in a black dress with lace sleeves; La Neice Collins, a United Nations adviser, wearing a white lace dress; and Gwen Greene, a J.P. Meanwhile, images flashing on a screen included photos and videos of the women, including social entrepreneur Tolu Olubunmi, who had been introduced to President Barack Obama at a 2013 immigration reform press conference.

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