At Marc Jacobs, Beauty Inspired by the Morning After

18 Sep 2015 | Author: | No comments yet »

Adriana Lima Walked Marc Jacobs At NYFW & Reminded Us Why She’s A Top Model — PHOTOS.

NEW YORK (AP) — The Associated Press is all over New York Fashion Week, from the runways to celebrities as eight days of spring previews entered their final day Thursday.Givenchy made an imposing splash with its sensitive, star-studded show last Friday, and Wednesday, Kanye West showed what seemed like all of the world’s celebrities his self-serious avant-garde sweatshirts and underwear for the people (call him Spanxy?).

The idea for the beauty in Marc Jacobs’s spring/summer 2016 show — from the hair and makeup right down to the sixth layer of glitter nail polish — was a fully conceived one: a girl who’s been out all night partying. Models first entered an outdoor red carpet — pausing to pose in front of a branded step and repeat — before taking a turn into the lobby and finally into the theater itself.

This season, Jacobs put on even more of a show than usual, taking over the Ziegfeld Theater in midtown Manhattan, home to many a movie premiere, with a Hollywood-style extravaganza of his own. Jacobs has never been a man to shy away from a theme (if his rigid but bizarrely accurate dress code for last week’s party at Tunnel was any indication. Afterwards, the hair was pulled back and up into various forms of unspecific updos: messy variations on a French twist, unintentionally asymmetrical chignons — and secured with pins and decorative rhinestone and pearl-encrusted clips from the new collection.

Musical accompaniment was provided by a live jazz band, and the designer cast some of his most major muses to walk the runway, including Emily Ratajkowski, Joan Smalls, Kendall Jenner and singer Beth Ditto. The high-voltage show began with models walking their own red carpet outside the Ziegfeld, delighting fans on the street who surely didn’t expect to see everything so up-close. So in the decadent, chandelier-stuffed lobby of the theater—whose plush red made for a fun nod to Diana Vreeland, an acolyte of the cult of scarlet who was Jacobs’s muse last season—flirty-faced boys and girls dispensed popcorn, candy, and fountain sodas from concession stands as attendees flurried in to find their seats. (Comfortingly, the street style priestesses who are themselves the size of a large Dr. Jacobs’s show, held tonight at the Ziegfeld Theatre, was the only one that Nars chose to work on this season (they’re close friends), and luckily, he had little reason to be bored.

They featured electric red and blue piping with faux gold buttons, an accent you would typically see on a circus ringleader rather than a supermodel like Joan Smalls or Kendall Jenner. They posed for photographers as the audience inside — many munching on popcorn or M&Ms and sipping sodas — watched the goings-on on a giant screen. Unlike the natural, effortless, makeup-free looks we’ve seen almost too much of lately, Nars was tasked with conveying a certain kind of lived-in glamour. “It’s very downtown rock — more like a rough glamour. Finally, the models entered the theater and made their way to the runway inside, as a big jazz band led by bandleader Brian Newman — and we do mean big — provided live accompaniment.

She and Jacobs have been working together for years with the former Victoria’s Secret model in past shows, and most recently, she’s the face of Jacob’s latest fragrance campaign. The same pointy silhouettes were done on lace-up boots as well: some in satin or metallic leather, others embellished with a multicolored array of crystals. The mood couldn’t have been more different from Jacobs’ last show in February, which was somewhat dark and moody and seemed to channel the Victorian era, with floor-length gowns and calf-length coats over them. There were celluloid sequins galore; fur, fringe, and slits-up-to-there; 30s-ish silhouettes clamoring with embellishments, like Garbo if she wanted to be seen; embellished Warholian screenprints of the iconic female film scream; a-doo-ron-ron varsity jackets; American flag motifs that suggested the big, wet kiss brand of Evel Knevil patriotism; biker babe looks; and even a funky little grouping of merry majorettes.

To achieve that perennial party-girl look, Nars kept skin clean of foundation and concealer, instead opting for a touch of greasy shine at the eyes, cheekbones and under the eyes. (“Vaseline is the best,” he said.) With a touch of shadow, he added some darkness under the eyes for a messy, day-after makeup effect, and a shock of turquoise blue at the inner corner of the eyelid for a rounder, doll-like shape. “There are a lot of bright colors,” he said, referencing the collection and his bold choice of hue. The first item set the tone: a shimmering, sequined floral skirt in red-white-and-blue, with a huge slit revealing short shorts, all topped with a roomy athletic-type sweater saying “Concert Band.” Like those who followed her, the model wore her hair up in a messy bun, a big tuft hanging over the eyes. Lots of big sweaters and long gowns and short shorts and trousers followed — in sequins and stripes and prints and plaids — a huge variety that defied attempts to discern a real theme.

There were bold prints of all kinds — sometimes three or four in one outfit — and every level of dressiness, from very casual to quite fancy (but still whimsical). Getting delighted cheers was musician and plus-size model Beth Ditto, who wore a plunging strapless white gown and carried, for extra panache, a white feather boa. This vision of a young woman who barely has the time — or the inclination — to remove one layer of makeup before adding a fresh new one, extended to the hands, too. The Americana focus seemed especially fitting for Jacobs, given he was born in New York and shows in New York (he’s one of the few leading designers who hasn’t fled to Milan or Paris—yet).

While I love that Ditto was everything on the runway, we’ve got to talk about the gorgeous woman that is Adriana Lima stomping the catwalk looking fierce. In a tan leather double-breasted traveling trouser suit and beachy blue-and-white stripes, the Ralph Lauren Collection served up a trip to the French Riviera. Lauren wanted to capture the rustic romanticism and the glamorous, sporty spirit of the well-heeled who flock there, he said in a statement after the show.

She had towering high cork wedges on her feet in navy alligator, chic totes and leather bags, and plenty of loose, flowing jumpsuits and dresses for evening. For the fashionista not afraid to make a BIG statement, Lauren spoke at high volume in a geometric print of cobalt, bright yellow, red, white, orange and neon green (you read that right) for a trench coat, strapless evening dress and other pieces. But much of the collection spoke to the label’s heart: a classic, elegant, belted day dress with short sleeves and a feminine ruffle at the neck, worn with a medium-wide brown belt, for instance.

It was a look many kinds of women would enjoy, unlike some voluminous print evening looks loaded down with ruffles, slits and draping below the waist Along the fancy stretch of Fifth Avenue, near the Harry Winston and Gucci stores in Manhattan’s East 50s, is the penthouse showroom of Helen Yarmak in the legendary Crown Building. Yarmak is a fur designer whose creations are often dyed and have been worn by the likes of Lady Gaga, Beyonce, Rihanna, Jennifer Lopez and the late Whitney Houston. On the last day of fashion week, she presented a small, limited-edition collection of furs in her cozy space, including ombre blues and stunning reds and yellows, some adorned with tulips and others with matching hats. She calls her fur coats, skirts, shorts, jackets, ponchos and vests “wearable art.” Some were reversible and one, a blue-dyed fox coat, had detachable sleeves and yellow tulips. Every piece you have like fairytale,” she said in heavily accented English. “I started in underwear because in Russia there were no jobs for mathematicians.

I love fashion.” While her furs in this collection reflected the emerald greens, tanzanite blues and purples, and Paraiba tourmaline in her rings, earrings and other jewelry, her spirit for design goes beyond the fashion elite.

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