A First For Fashion

12 Sep 2015 | Author: | No comments yet »

A First For Fashion.

NEW YORK — On a dystopian set with One World Trade Center beaming its blue light into the night sky this Sept. 11, Givenchy took Manhattan on a pier Friday before a star-studded crowd, remembering tragedy and celebrating fashion at the same time. When Princess Diana’s marriage was falling apart and she needed a photographer to help recast her as sexy, independent and carefree, Patrick Demarchelier was the man she called on.On Friday, the world’s glitziest VIP names flocked to Downtown Manhattan’s Pier 26 for the biggest spectacle of New York Fashion Week: the hallowed French house Givenchy’s first-ever runway show in New York City.

Riccardo Tisci, the French fashion house’s creative director, worked with performance artist Marina Abramovic on the Waterworld-esque set of walls made of recycled metal and wooden shards, seating his huge crowd on stacked wooden pallets and benches as models walked in looks of mostly black and white. The show took place at Pier 26 in Hudson River Park at sundown, creating an equally contemplative and mesmerizing setting (we’re talking models standing under drain pipes, wielding olive branches—and then there’s that finale number set to a live rendition of “Ave Maria”…). From last spring’s gothic streetwear squad to last fall’s “Chola Victorian” girls—yes, septum rings and all—this season will for sure be a different animal. Demarchelier has photographed them and countless others in sensuous but classically pretty spreads for Vogue, Glamour, Vanity Fair, W, Harper’s Bazaar, Cosmopolitan and Allure.

They were joined by Julia Roberts in a T-shirt adorned with Tisci’s face, Uma Thurman, Margot Robbie and Nicki Minaj in a body-hugging animal print dress, along with athletes Amar’e Stoudemire, Victor Cruz, Russell Westbrook (showing his own fashion line this season) and father-daughter Steven and Liv Tyler. Flaunting her maternity curves, Kim slipped into a stunning black design with a sheer illusion panel revealing—yep, you see it!—her ever-growing baby bump. stepped out for the show in a full, pink-tinged leopard print ensemble featuring a tea-length dress and cape (that was extremely body-hugging, of course).

Givenchy calmed the crowd, including more than 800 members of the public who received tickets to watch from the sidelines, with a soundtrack of chanting and other music honoring six cultures and religions. Demarchelier at an exhibition of his most iconic images, many of which hark back to the supermodel era, when Linda Evangelista, Christy Turlington, Cindy Crawford and Kate Moss ruled the roost. Givenchy muses (and Topshop’s newest brand ambassador) Ciara—in a booty-baring leotard—and Amanda Seyfried were both spotted en route as well, with Amanda in a molten gold fluted skirt.

Some looks included eery face adornments in lacy patterns while other models had multiple spike earrings with nodules attached at the tops of their nose bridges. Plus, Tisci’s designer pals Michael Kors, Alexander Wang and Vera Wang were on deck, quite literally, to lend their support. took to the catwalk (natch) in a simple white peplum top and loose-fitting black trousers, making her fourth appearance for Tisci since the fall-winter 2014 season. It hasn’t been too long: Back in June, Kendall hit the runway for Givenchy’s presentation at Men’s Fashion Week (you read that right) alongside supermodel Naomi Campbell. Puerto Rican beauty Joan Smalls appeared in one of the most stunning looks from the collection: A floor-sweeping black gown featuring a voluminous organza skirt.

One toppled as she navigated this world, described in show notes by Abramovic as an event “about forgiveness, inclusivity, new life, hope, and above all, love.” Overwhelmingly, his colleagues praised him for his speed on set, his strong eye and his impeccable taste, which has not wavered even in this blown-out, porno-chic era. From monochrome separates and trim menswear pieces to stop and stare-worthy gowns, the spring-summer 2016 presentation offered more than food for sartorial thought. Demarchelier’s unique blend of French and English has become so legendary that there is a question asked routinely in the industry before people are brought onto jobs with him: “Do you speak Patrick?” For a man known for being chipper in a field of depressives, his sole resentment is toward consonants.

Goodman said. “The best is when Patrick is talking to a celebrity and the celebrity has that look on their face like they are trying desperately to understand what he’s saying and they can’t let on they do not.” “No one understands anything he says,” Grace Coddington said. “But he calls the models ‘bebe’ and says ‘fabulous’ and ‘diveeeeene,’ and he makes them feel beautiful.” And so they stand on beaches, lie atop of Frette sheets and crawl across the desert sand for the tall man with the wavy gray hair, who goes snap, snap, snap and grunts with approval. Demarchelier — who stood in the corner looking casually chic in his greenish Hermès blazer, his blue Hermès shirt, his washed-out J Crew jeans and his New Balance Sneakers — said the most important thing is to capture beauty, inside and out. “My accent is strong,” he said. “Sometimes I do TV interview, and I see the subtitles underceese.

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